Saturday, April 24, 2010


I received this image when our team was visiting Hani and Danielle's team on our last shooting days. Our teams were sharing vans and drivers and I remember our groups were processing the end of our respective trips in different ways: Kelly, Pete, and I were exhausted--further exacerbated with the bumpy ride to the outskirts of the city, and wondering what would happen to all the people we got to know. We arrived, pulled ourselves out of the van and stood in front of a block of makeshift shelters; our friends were working busily somewhere in that maze. These two fine gentlemen fought through the language barrier and led us to them.

This was shot at a wildlife sanctuary. You can't see it, but all the tourists with their prosumer cameras, pleated khakis, and carefully protected skin are straining to get a good look at the baby elephants. Michelle and I grew weary of the spectacle, and found that observing the fellow tourists was much more interesting. I love the posture of the woman at the center, carefully and politely trying to get around for a better view.

His name is Peru. His interest is comedy. He told us this on the first day, surrounded by his brothers and using English when we were advised that they would be too embarrassed to try. No excuses; play like a champion. That is correct.

I don't know what to say about this man toiling in the street as I never shook his hand and learned his name. I want to say that he's resilient and, here, fighting through the economic turmoil that Kenyans were struggling to endure. Perhaps he was a victim of the matatu* strike that was in place during our visit. (That, and the New Years holiday gave us clear streets in the heart of Nairobi for a few days.) The irony was, of course, that in their efforts to quell police harassment and unfair regulations, the working man couldn't get to work. The streets were lined with pedestrians in commute, having to leave home hours earlier, and returning home hours later. Resilience is a necessity.

*Matatu: minibus transportation. We couldn't find whether these were state regulated or not, but that's largely irrelevant. Policy enforcement was, as we saw, almost nonexistent. Some issues that were being contested were passenger limit and safety measures. Many Kenyans are unable to afford Matatu transportation; our driver was repeatedly hounded for a ride to the other side of town.

Rodgers took this photograph. My camera was slung around his neck, set to Manual after a crash course in the basics of exposure. Rodgers isn't a jerk--he's really very nice and funny--but he managed to get an image in the forty shots he took that is better than any of the thousands I took. So it goes.
I gave him the camera because we were making our way through one of the biggest slums in the world, and he would have a better vantage with which to take photos while Pete and I would capture video footage discreetly. What I mean to say is, while Pete and I were carefully walking around with white knuckles gripping our video cameras and hoping the picture wouldn't be too shaky for Kelly to edit later, Rodgers wouldn't be hassled with his camera, and he got to hold the body up to his face to compose each shot carefully. We bemoaned that we looked like Americans by the hour--it became one of our several mantras.
But I was saying about "one of the biggest slums in the world": we were astounded, and delighted, to see this entire society. Sans, of course, any running water or public services of any kind. No law enforcement, even if there was an understanding. No infrastructure of any kind actually--the closest sign of such that we could find was the rampant piggybacking on power lines for electricity and cable television. (Yep.) Shops were set up along the alleys selling food that we were enormously tempted by, bootleg DVDs and karaoke machine rentals, and school supplies. Day care programs, butchers, and hotels were set up around each "block" and, though thousands of people were "sharing" one toilet, people were surviving.
Still, while imagining what the day-to-day in such a place consists of, we had to wonder where you can go from a place like this.